Wednesday, April 4, 2018

DIY Percussion Massage Tool

Simple Black & Decker Compact Saw Conversion - Compare to TheraGun or TimTam


I have had my share of bad bike crashes over the last several years and have some very stubborn soft tissue issues that I have been working on and trying to improve - the joys of getting old! I can remember being sore for a few days after crashing in my 20's, but now I don't quite bounce up as well as I used to. With that in mind I was searching for some tools to help my body heal and function properly when I saw a few online videos of massage tools created from jig saws, reciprocating saws and even sanders. There are of course dedicated tools like the TheraGun and TimTam that you can purchase but they are expensive and cost anywhere from $400 to several thousand dollars for the top line percussion massagers!

My goal was to build a simple version in my shop and see how well it works. I have now gone through three revisions of this idea and have settled on a much better version for a very low cost of just around $50! The latest version is on the bottom, and the original is on the top.



I settled on using a Black & Decker Compact Saw model LPS7000. This "saw" has similar specs to other products on the market - 2050 strokes per minute, a bearable 70 dB sound level, and around 30 minutes of run time per charge - all for just $39.99!



I started by modifying some Bosch jig saw blades. I did this by grinding off the teeth, shortening them a little, rounding the ends for safety, and then finally inserting them into  some various rubber balls and a couple of black rubber stoppers.

This process is pretty easy, and works well. However I found that it could be a little flexy and required glue to keep the blades in place. I had one ball pop off during use and I ended up with a few painful jabs. Luckily I had nicely rounded the end of the blades, however they are narrow and it can still hurt a bit.

I also prefer "frost" or "ice" bouncy balls as I have found that the rough surface on these types of balls work better for direct skin contact and doesn't irritate my skin as much as the smooth rubber balls do. The icy balls are a bit more delicate than a regular super ball and can split easily when just the saw blade is inserted and then used.

My second version was an attempt to eliminate some of the jigsaw blade flex and the various problems of inserting them into rubber parts. I also decided that I wanted to be able to use tips made from additional materials so having a threaded connection for swapping out the tips would make things easier. 

For the threaded arbor I brazed together a shortened jig saw blade to a 1/4" bolt with an added washer to make a nice threaded arbor

I then used some threaded 1/4-20 Rivnuts from my shop and chucked up a ball in my lathe to bore out a hole for the Rivnut. I used some epoxy and glued the Rivnut into the hole I made in the ball. This makes for a very sturdy threaded connection.

I also made a tapered aluminum tip with female 1/4-20 threads on the back to mount to the same arbor.


While this is a better solution and works very well I wanted to try to improve the functionality even more.

On the unmodified saw there is spring loaded blade locking mechanism that is attached to the main drive shaft with 2 small 3mm socket head 
allen screws. 

This blade retention device isn't needed if it will no longer be a "saw"! 

So lets get rid of it!
I removed the blade holder, shorten the hardened steel drive shaft by cutting it off with an abrasive saw blade, and fabricated a new aluminum adapter collar to fit the newly shortened drive shaft. This new aluminum collar has a 1/4-20 threaded hole to accept a set screw for attaching my new attachments.

Finally, I could also remove the jigsaw metal guide foot and the plastic frame area around the drive shaft to shorten and lighten the tool. 

The final version is below. This works much better and is easier to handle and use with more controlled power working on a muscle - there is no more flex or extra movement that occurred when using a modified jig saw blade.


Leave any comments or questions if you want more details on how to do this mod.

Thursday, February 22, 2018

Welcome To Worthington Cycles

We specialize in high end custom made steel racing bicycles. Contact us to see if we can help you with the selection of a new bicycle, repairs, replacement parts, as well as the design and building of one-off hand made custom frames. We can provide hard to find parts and accessories, specialty replacement parts, and even custom designed and manufactured parts and accessories. 

Based in Santa Cruz California Worthington Cycles was founded in 1983 by Monty Worthington. Since 1983 we have built  custom steel frames including; mountain bike frames, road frames, track frames, and cyclo-cross frames. We have also designed and built specialty handlebars, custom stems, cantilever brakes, custom wheels, and many other specialty parts. 2018 is the 35th year building and working on custom bicycles!

Take a look at the posts on Custom Frames, Cantilever Brakes, Custom Wheels, and Custom Steel Stems, each is summarized with photos, product information, and some history of the product. All of our in house products are made in small custom quantities offering a limited supply, and depending on the season we may be out doing R&D testing or racing, instead of just building parts.


Worthington Cycles also has a long history of doing bicycle racing photography and product photography for the bicycle industry. We are working on a Image Library to show some of our classic racing images from our many years of covering races freelance or on assignment with major cycling publications.

Tuesday, February 6, 2018

Bottom Bracket Standards

After several years of new bottom bracket standards being introduced practically every other month, all promising to fix all of the old problems, it seems like things have settled down a little bit in this area of bike design lately.

Whether it is PressFit 30, BB30, BBright, T47, or one of the myriad of other proprietary setups Worthington Cycles will offer frames with the proven regular  old threaded BSA "english" bottom brackets for the foreseeable future.



Some may argue that the various 30mm BB standards offer some performance advantages including larger bearings and a stiff yet lightweight 30mm dia. aluminum BB axle -- we feel that using the 386EVO, or similar designs can accomplish the same results  -- and it uses a standard threaded bottom bracket shell. 

Both of my personal road bikes currently have FSA EVO386 threaded bottom brackets on them which are are doing great after several seasons of use. 
For mountain bikes I tend to run with the standard BSA threaded 24mm Shimano setup which works great as well.

About the only time a BB30 or PF30 bottom bracket is more useful is when a rare customer has problems with ankle clearance on a standard crankset - the BB30 crank systems do offer tons of extra ankle clearance due to the narrower BB profile.


I tend to be an ankle and foot rub person, but fortunately I am still able to use standard cranks with an outboard bearing system on a standard threaded bottom bracket.


At some point the T47 threaded PF30 shell design, which has very few drawbacks other than the new tooling costs, might become the future standard that everyone can finally settle on. For now I am sitting back and keeping an eye on things to see how it all shakes out...If someone were to send me some cutting taps for T47 I would probably switch to that system, but I don't think that will happen anytime soon...

Monday, January 8, 2018

Custom Wheels


Worthington Cycles can custom build a perfect set of hand built wheels for you. We can build ultralight road wheels, aero wheels, bomb-proof training wheels and Mountain wheels of any just about any type. We do all of our building by hand and select each component to match your needs. Built with your choice of top of the line hubs, rims and spokes all in a hand built custom design tailored just to your needs that are better than most of the factory sets now available.

• Rim Choices: Sun, DT, Velocity, Stans NoTubes, HED, Kinlin, Easton etc...
• Hubs: Shimano, DT, Chris King, Bitex, etc...
• Spokes: DT, Wheelsmith, Sapim
• 700C, 29er, 26" MTN, 650B, Tandem, Single Speed, Gravel Wheels 

• Tubeless Road Wheels
• Disc Brake Wheels for Mountain, Cross or Road
• Specialty Lacing Patterns Available


An example of a lightweight set of road wheels we recently built use Stan's Notubes Alpha 340 rims in 24H Rear & 20H front drilling. They are laced with DT Revolution spokes on the rear, and DT aerolite spokes on the front with silver alloy nipples. Lacing is 2x Rear and Radial (heads out) front. The rims are taped with Notubes rim tape for tubeless compatibility. The hubs were Shimano DuraAce 9000. The wheels were outfitted with a set of 25c Fusion 5 Galactik Hutchinson tubeless tires. The wheels (without tires) weigh in at just under 1300 grams.

Friday, September 29, 2017

Worthington Cantilever Brakes


Perfect for Cyclo-Cross, or any retro project, we still have our powerful cantilever brakes available for sale. This brake was originally made back in 1992 and was designed to be a powerful cantilever brake for Cyclo-Cross, mountain biking, and tandems. This Worthington Cycles brake design was initially licensed to Nicol Trading International to be manufactured and sold under the Worthington Cantilever Brake name by NTi. Worthington Cycles is now the only source for the Worthington Cantilever Brake.

The arms are CNC Machined from solid 2024-T3 billet making this brake one of the stiffest brakes available. We also use a close tolerance bronze bushing for reduced brake chatter and long life. It is designed as a low profile brake and sits close to the fork tubes or seat stays to prevent snags and improve braking power. Modulation can easily be tuned by changing the length of the straddle cable yoke angle and the position of the pads. These brakes are available in 3 anodized colors.

Made in the USA
Colors: Blue, Silver, Red or black
Weight: 170 grams with pads (front or rear)
Pricing: $99.00 per wheel


SELECT COLOR:


Monday, May 15, 2017

Lightweight Steel Road Frames - Under 3 Pounds!


Custom Lightweight Steel Road Frames

We can build very lightweight custom steel road frames using the oversize thin wall steel tubing - building a frame that weighs just under three pounds. 

While this isn't in the same weight class as an ultralight carbon frame, it has the special feel of steel that many demand while still being reasonably light and very strong. The weight penalty of a few ounces, or a few hundred grams, is made up for by the smooth ride and amazing feel that only a lightweight steel frame can provide.

The frame pictured above is a 54 CM frame and weighs 2.9lbs. This is an amazing frame that feels so nice on the road, and at just under 3 pounds is a perfect alternative to aluminum, carbon, or titanium frames. We feel that the long fatigue life steel typically exhibits will make this frame a long lasting lightweight winner, and since it is available as a custom frame from Worthington Cycles it can be designed to fit your needs and requirements perfectly.

Tuesday, August 11, 2015

Worthington Irie™ Cantilever Brakes

We have built and sold two different cantilever designs over the years. Our first brake design was the Irie Brake™, which is a pulley assisted brake, and was one of the first long arm cantilever brakes sold in the late 1980's. Now of course the Shimano® V-Brake style brake is the standard rim brake used on most mountain bikes. The Irie Brake was very powerful but did not perform very well with standard cantilever type brake levers. Since a standard cantilever lever pulled less cable than the Irie brakes need there was too little pad clearance at the rim, so adjusting and maintaining these brakes was time consuming. With the advent of V-Brake, and the corresponding specific levers, that have more cable travel the Irie Brake works incredibly well.
CNC Machined from 6061-T6 solid billet the brake arms are then hand polished and black anodized. The pulleys are machined from 7075-T6 and use a sealed cartridge bearing for the pulleys to provide long lasting and smooth braking action.
Color: Black
Stainless Mounting Bolts
Weight: 190 grams with pads
Pricing: $99.00 per wheel - Front or Rear


Wednesday, November 7, 2012

New Frame Shop

Well it took a bit longer than I thought it would, but the new shop is almost complete. All the machines and tools are pretty much up and running - I just need to do a little bench reinforcement and add some more hooks and storage. Here is a pic of how things look. This is by far the best shop I have had. It rivals my third shop built in 1988. It is a far cry from the first shop, which was outside under a deck, from when I first started building frames back in high school. I haven't had a complete shop in just over 2 years. During that time I had just a temporary shop for basic maintenance and repairs. Now I need to get back to the CAD program and work up some new designs. I am thinking about a new hardtail mountain bike, possibly a 650B front end with a 26" rear wheel that would harken back to my original mountain bikes from the 1980's which all had 24" rear wheels with 26" front wheels. I also would like to build up a new road frame with PF-30 BB, and an over-sized integrated headtube. I think I will stick with S3 tubing as I love the feel of frames made with that tubeset.

Saturday, September 17, 2011

Interbike 2011

Interbike 2011 is a wrap - Yet another year at Interbike (my 27th year!). This year seemed like more of an evolution year with very little in the way of major announcements. I think part of this is the way many companies are revealing their products well in advance of Interbike, even as early as events like Sea Otter.

This year power meters are still part of the buzz. Garmin, Look, Brim Brothers, Rotor etc...all had new or updated versions of their power meters on display. However, none are shipping. I am still waiting for the rumored Shimano integration of power into the Di2 system. I wonder when that will happen.

Another trend that continues is the expansion of tubeless road wheel options. Easton, American Classic, Fulcrum, and Notubes, among others, showed several new wheelsets. The American Classic wheels seem to offer a nice wide wheel, with a interesting bead hook and they are very light weight (1179g Aluminum, 1108g mag). Prices are a bit high in my opinion and it will be hard to justify $1600 for the Magnesium wheels over say a HED or ZIPP carbon clincher. I would love to see American Classic offer just the 310gr Aluminum Clincher Rims for custom wheel builds, but based on their history of not offering their rims separately I don't see this happening. The Easton EA90RT wheels also are a great wheel for the price $850 and would be a good choice - even though they are much heavier at 1550g.

Unfortunately there is little in the way of new Tubeless Road tires - Hutchinson still has their 3 products; Fusion3, Intesive, and Atom, while Maxxis had their Padrone tires that are a bit expensive at $120 retail. Still waiting for more alternative tubeless tires and some lower cost options.

Some other trends included more disc brakes for cyclo-cross, hydraulic shifting, BB30, PF30, and BB86EVO on more bikes, official introduction of Ultegra Di2, and tons of wider and deeper carbon wheel options.

All in all it was a good show, but with less and less product introductions.

Saturday, January 1, 2011

2011 New Years Resolutions

I was thinking about everyone and their "Resolutions" for the new year and I thought I would mention a few things cyclists in 2011 should try if they haven't yet.

Tubeless Road Tires: I personally have been running tubeless road tires since 2009 and have yet to flat while running them - knock on wood!. The ride is just better, and with a splash of sealant from NoTubes or CaffeLatex you have even better insurance against flats.

Regular Spoke Nipples: With the rash of carbon wheels, aero wheels, and other lightweight wheels now on the market I suggest that you pick a set of wheels with standard components - especially normal nipples. If you are hard on you components having an easily serviced wheel makes life much easier. Plus, when you convert normal clincher rim to to tubeless it is a pain to do simple repairs and truing if you don't have regular spoke nipples. I suggest a good set of custom wheels from your favorite local builder - We can help with that also.

Lower your tire pressure: Weather you are running road tires, cyclo-cross, or mountain tires, try running them at a lower pressure for a week or two to see if you see a difference. I see people running much higher pressures than they should in many cases.

Enjoy riding your bike in 2011